And Sew it Was
Prestigious collection of sewing machines comes to auction
What is believed to be the largest collection of antique sewing machines in Canada will be sold on May 9th at Miller & Miller’s online-only auction, Advertising, Toys & Historic Objects.
The invention of the sewing machine had a profound and progressive impact on the lives of women around the world.
The sewing machine was fine-tuned over time, beginning in the 1790s in Europe and ending with the introduction of the first usable home sewing machine in the mid-1800s in America.
“It was the first really, really practical appliance that came into the home and it revolutionized women’s lives,” says Janis Stewart, a former collector and Miller & Miller’s sewing machine specialist.
Families tended to be large in the mid-1800s, often with six or more children. Making all their clothes was a tedious and time-consuming job tremendously simplified and speeded up by the advent of the sewing machine.
What is believed to be the largest collection of antique sewing machines in Canada will be sold on May 9th at Miller & Miller’s online-only auction, Advertising, Toys & Historic Objects. The 120 machines in the sale come from long-time Ontario collector Carl Koenig, who had a sign hanging in his house that said it all: ‘And Sew it Was’.
So common was home sewing that by 1859 there were more than 30 manufacturers in Ontario alone. All of them were gone by 1916.
These are a few of the auction highlights:
The Moldacot is what Stewart calls “an invention gone wrong”. This tiny machine, which weighs less than a pound, was made in Great Britain in 1885. Finely engineered, made of solid brass and heavily nickel plated, it was advertised as being so simple to operate even a child could use it – something Stewart calls “bunk”. “Children simply did not have the manual dexterity to run these machines.”
The Moldacot is offered as Lot 166 in Miller & Miller’s upcoming May 9th auction featuring the Carl Koenig Sewing Machine Collection. Update: SOLD for $660
Inventor S.A. Rosenthal advocated selling shares in the Moldacot company and the British machine was enthusiastically marketed. The U.S. press, however, was skeptical and suggested that if every family in the United Kingdom bought one there would be no more customers left after three years. “The American press called it a swindle and nicknamed the machine the ‘moldy cat’,” says Stewart. The cost to make the machine soon outpaced its sale price, the company declared bankruptcy, and the patent was bought by companies in France and Germany, where this one was made.
The Model 20 Singer Sewhandy is offered as Lot 259 in Miller & Miller’s May 9th auction featuring the Carl Koenig Sewing Machine Collection. Update: SOLD for $649
This chain stitch (single thread) Model 20 Singer Sewhandy came in a number of colours, but red and blue are the most desirable to collectors since very few were made. They were promoted at Christmas as a child’s toy, but the rest of the year marketed as portable, travel-worthy sewing machines for adults. As a result, the labelling on the boxes was always changing. This particular model was made in Great Britain for export.
Singer, launched in 1851, grew to become a huge company with factories all over the world, including Canada, the United States, Britain, Scotland and France. It’s without a doubt the name people associate with sewing more than any other. At its peak, The Singer Sewing Machine Company was bigger than General Motors. It’s founder, American Isaac Merritt Singer, was an ambitious man, as well as a handsome womanizer. During his lifetime he had five wives (reportedly two at the same time) and 24 children. He was also a tremendous salesman who made his machines affordable for every family in the country by introducing credit. He began ‘renting’ his machines for a down payment of $5, with monthly payments of $3 to $5 until the total cost of $125 was paid off. When he died in 1875 at age 65, Isaac Singer was worth $13 million – an astounding amount for the times.
This Osborn sewing machine is offered as Lot 389 in Miller & Miller’s May 9th auction featuring the Carl Koenig collection. Update: SOLD for $480
This Osborn sewing machine, made between 1869 and 1887, is an extremely rare Canadian machine that won all sorts of prizes in its day, says Stewart. Manufactured by the Guelph Sewing Machine Company, there were only 17,000 made a year. Many treadle sewing machines were discarded when electricity made an entrance in the early 20th century, thus making machines like the Osborn scarce. In 1872, it won 25 first prizes at competitions, as well as a gold medal in Lyon, France where it was described as “complete perfection”. Years ago, when she was actively collecting, Stewart discovered an Osborn in wonderful condition in a barn. (There are only three known to still exist.) “It was one of the most exciting things that ever happened to me.”
While great condition is always nice, she adds, “condition goes out the window if there are very few examples left. You just want to own one – own that piece of history”.
This Howe sewing machine is offered as Lot 254 in Miller & Miller’s May 9th auction. Update: SOLD for $150
This Howe, made about 1870, is associated with the invention of America’s first home sewing machine since it was American Elias Howe who took out the first patent for one.
But in actual fact, it was fellow American Walter Hunt who was the real inventor. He designed the machine but was convinced by his teenage daughter not to secure a patent because she was afraid it would put seamstresses out of work.
Elias Howe saw an opening and took out a patent – for a machine identical to Hunt’s. He then demanded $25 for every home machine made in the U.S. Outraged, the three major American sewing machine companies – Sheeler & Wilson, Grover & Baker, and Singer – banded together in opposition and formed the ‘Sewing Machine Combination’. Together they agreed to pay Howe $5 for every machine sold in the U.S. and $1 for every one sold overseas.
“Howe had no intention of manufacturing machines or advancing their technology in any way,” explains Stewart. “He was only interested in money.”
And he made plenty of it. Elias Howe earned $2 million in royalties on his patent, making him the third-richest man in the United States at the time.
This Florence Treadle sewing machine is offered as Lot 267 in Miller & Miller’s upcoming auction. Update: SOLD for $1,416
The Florence is one of the most sought after sewing machines among collectors, according to Stewart. “How could you not love this machine?”
About 150,000 of them were made between 1860 and 1880 in Florence, Massachusetts. It’s a shuttle lockstitch machine, which uses two threads. It has a round cloth plate and sews right to left, which was unusual, not to mention awkward.
The Florence sewing machine features an elaborate hand-painted iron stand.
The Florence also has an elaborate iron stand, all of which were hand-painted at the factory by artists. “It’s not the rarest machine, but it has a high value due to its spectacular appearance,” says Stewart.
This Foley & Williams ‘Triumph’ sewing machine is offered as Lot 269 in Miller & Miller’s upcoming sale. Update: SOLD for $767
The circular design of the Triumph is unusual. So is the fact it’s made of wood. In 1902, the Sears Roebuck catalogue advertised it for $1.25, touting the machine as suitable for everyday family use. According to Stewart, many toy sewing machines were also made in this circular design, but realistically were too difficult for children to master.
“The whole world of sewing machines is just marvellous,” says Stewart. “It includes every element of a fabulous story.”
Story by Diane Sewell
Auction Details: Advertising, Toys & Historic Objects - May 9, 2020. 9 am.
This is an online-only auction event.